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Getting started with Roses
An excellent read.
Getting Started with Roses by Veronica Sliva
by Veronica Sliva
email: vsliva@rogers.com
Veronica has been gardening for as long as she can remember. When other kids were reading comics, she was reading the Stokes Seed Catalog. In the past 25 years Veronica has written hundreds of articles about gardens and gardening for magazines and newspapers. She also develops online content for Internet websites. Her regular newspaper column, In the Garden is enjoyed by readers in Durham Region, and The Garden Party is read throughout the greater Toronto area. She is also a regular contributor to HGTV.ca.
When not consumed by her garden she enjoys photography, birding, spending time at the cottage and ballroom dancing.
Veronica makes presentations on gardening topics to a variety of groups including horticultural societies, garden clubs and service clubs.
Veronica owns Sliva Communications, a business that provides a full a range of writing services including business and marketing material, technical documentation and anything that requires a wordsmith. She is a seasoned technical writer with a post graduate diploma in Technical Communications.
Veronica is a Regional Director for Canada of the Garden Writers' Association, Chair of the Oshawa Valley Botanical Garden Task Force, and a past president of the Brooklin Horticultural Society.
July 5, 2009
Roses … probably no other flower is so loved and feared by gardeners. New gardeners often shy away from growing roses at first, and no wonder! It’s intimidating to listen to more experienced gardeners lament about roses lost to severe winters, and then fretting over black spot (what’s that?), and then debating the correct method of pruning. On and on it goes. It’s like everything else in gardening though, and comes down to choosing the right plant for the location you have to offer. If you are infatuated with roses, fear not because there is a rose for every situation. Growing roses is not difficult. Once you learn a few basics, you can begin what often turns into a life long passion and love affair with the flower of romance…the irresistible rose.
Rose Types
Generally, I think of rose types as those that need to be coddled and are therefore tender because they don’t always make it through the winter, and as those types that reliably survive our winters and are considered hardy.
Here is a brief description of the different types of roses:
Tender Types
Tender roses require winter protection and without it may not survive our winters. Winter protection means to ‘hill’ up the roses by covering the base of the plant with a few inches of compost, usually in about mid October. Sometimes it’s best to think of these tender roses as annuals, and enjoy them throughout the summer. If they survive the winter (and they often do), consider it a bonus.
Hybrid Teas
· Hybrid teas have large flowers on long stems · Generally they produce one flower per stem · Hybrid teas are the type typically sold as cut flowers · They come in the widest colour range and fragrance varies depending on variety
Floribundas
· Floribunda means abundance of flowers · The bloom with clusters of flowers from early summer to frost, with biggest show in early summer · They are shorter than hybrid teas · Floribundas are hardier than hybrid teas, but still need winter protection
Grandifloras
· Grandiflora means ‘large flowers’ · These roses have big flowers in small clusters · They are the result of a cross between hybrid tea and floribunda roses · They have longer stems than floribundas, are taller than most hybrid teas, and are twice the height of floribundas
English or David Austin Roses
· These roses are noted for full, very double flowers that come in the delicate, pastel colours of old garden roses and they have outstanding fragrance · David Austin crossed modern climbers, floribundas and hybrid teas with gallicas and damasks to produce these roses
Miniatures
· Miniatures look like tiny versions of hybrid teas · Their height varies between 6 inches to 2 feet (15 -60 cm) · Most varieties bloom all summer long · I have found that miniatures reliably come through the winter (at least for me)
Hardier Types
Climbers
· Climbers are not really a type of rose, but a category of botanically diverse roses that have long, arching branches or upright canes · They don’t climb on their own, but need to be tied to a support such as a trellis.
Modern Shrub Roses
· These great roses need minimal care, are disease resistant and are hardy to -35 C with only snow as protection · Available in a variety of colours and sizes, they flower throughout the summer · The Parkland and Explorer series were developed by Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada
Growing Conditions
Soil
Roses prefer a clay based soil over light sandy soil. However, roses will grow in almost any type of soil if enough organic matter is added. If you routinely refer to your soil as concrete, then it would be wise to remove at least half the ‘concrete’ from the planting area and replace it with something lighter.
Light
Roses like a sunny location, preferably with 8 to 10 hours of direct sunlight in the afternoon. With less light, you will get fewer flowers and the canes will become spindly.
Fertilizer
Once your roses are well established and growing, preferably after the first bloom, feed them with a prepared rose fertilizer. Roses should not be fed after July since this encourages soft growth and raises the risk of winter kill.
Water
Roses need good drainage, but they also need a lot of water during the growing season. If the weather has been dry, they should be soaked once or twice a week, depending on how well your soil holds water. Water your roses either in late afternoon or early morning, being careful to water at the soil level.
Planting Guide
1. Immediately before planting, put the rose in a pail of water so that the finer roots don’t dry out. 2. Dig a hole 18 to 24 inches deep and wide enough so that the roots can be spread out in a natural manner. The deeper the soil is prepared the better. 3. Work well rotted or composted cattle manure into the soil along with a liberal addition of peat moss. Don’t worry about making it too rich. Roses are heavy feeders and organic matter helps the moisture retention qualities of the soil. An addition of super phosphate is recommended. 4. Form a pyramid or cone of soil in the center of the hole and position the rose on top of the pyramid so that the crown or bud union is about 3 inches below ground level and let the roots fall over the pyramid. 5. Fill in the hole with the remaining soil mix. 6. Firm the soil so that the rose’s roots are in contact with the soil and there are no air pockets around the roots. 7. Soak the rose thoroughly.
Pruning
At the same time a rose is planted, it should be pruned or cut back if this has not already been done by the garden center. Only three or four strong branches from the base should remain and these too should be cut back to about four or five inches above the ground. Cut the branches back to the live wood, as indicated by white pith. Cuts should be made with sharp shears, about 5mm above an outward facing bud.
Diseases and Pests
My first choice of treatment for pest problems is one that doesn’t involve chemicals. Generally speaking, insecticides should only be used once a problem is identified. For diseases, some Rose experts suggest a preventative approach is more desirable. They say you should spray or dust every ten days even if you don't see a problem because by the time you notice, it may be too late to control the disease. There are products that combine both an insecticide and a fungicide. Use these only if you require both. The following chart provides an overview of some common diseases and pests.
Diseases
Description Damage Treatment
Black Spot
· Round black spots on leaves · Leaves turn yellow, and drop off · Use materials specifically formulated for rose black spot and mildew control, such as Funginex alternated with benomyl or folpet (Phaltan) · Apply fungicidal sprays every 10 to 14 days from the time new shoots are 10-15cm (4-6 in) high until October
Powdery Mildew
· Powdery, white fungal disease · Most often occurs when the days are warm, the nights are cool and when air circulation is poor · Grayish, white patches on leaves · Leaves can become distorted and drop off · Stem, buds affected too · Remove affected leaves · Commercial fungicide should control the problem
Pests
Spider Mites
· Soft bodied · Increase in hot weather · Leaves become pale and dry, could turn reddish · May be able to see webs · Mostly found on underside of leaves · Spray off with hose · If they persist, spray with insecticidal soap
Scale · Sap feeding insect lives under shell-like covering · Encrust stem, insect sucks sap from plant · Causes plant to wilt and die · Cut off affected parts · Insects survive winter, so dormant oil spray in early spring helps
Rose Chafer
· Luminescent, grayish-brown insect, ¼ inch long with spiny legs · Eats new rose buds · Hand picking or insecticide labeled for this purpose
Aphids · Soft bodied · Take on colour of whatever they are feeding on
· Found on new growth
· Try hosing them off · Use insecticidal soap · Release natural predators such as lady bugs, which can be purchased at garden centers
Roses for Durham Region (Canadian Zones 5 – 6)
Hybrid Teas and Grandifloras
* Pascali (white)
* Burgund 81 (med red)
* Olympiad (med red)
* Double Delight (red blend)
* Elina/Peaudouce (light yellow)
* Liebeszauber (med red)
* Miss All American Beauty (deep pink)
* Princess Grace of Monaco (white)
* Garden Party (yellow blend)
* Alec's Red (med red)
* Folklore (orange)
* Electron (deep pink)
* Tournament of Roses (med pink)
* Touch of Class (orange/pink)
* Just Joey (orange)
Floribundas
* Iceberg (white)
* Europeana (deep red)
* Sexy Rexy (med pink)
* Tabris (pink blend)
* Lavaglow (deep red)
* Friesia/Sunsprite (deep yellow)
Climbers
* New Dawn (light pink)
* Altissimo (med red)
* America (orange/pink)
* Clair Matin (med pink)
* Compassion (orange/pink)
* John Cabot (med red)
Miniatures
* Mountie ( med red)
* Jean Keneally (apricot)
* Magic Carrousel (red blend)
* Minnie Pearl (med pink)
* Cupcake (med pink)
* Debut (red blend)
Modern Shrubs
* William Baffin (deep pink)
* Dortmund (med red)
* Morden Blush (light pink)
* Bonica (med pink)
* Golden Wings (light yellow)
* Sally Hohnes (white)
* The Fairy (light pink)
* Therese Bugnet (med pink)
Old Garden Roses
* Rose de Rescht (deep pink)
* Stanwell Perpetual (white)
* Louise Odier (deep pink)
* Queen Margarethe (light pink)
* Austrian Copper, (red blend)
* Frau Karl Druschki (white)
Austin Roses
* Graham Thomas (deep yellow)
* Mary Rose (med pink)
* Golden Celebration (deep yellow)
* Heritage (light pink)
* Eglantine (deep pink)
* Evelyn (apricot blend)
Read more: http://www.icangarden.com/document.cfm?task=viewdetail&itemid=4...
Getting Started with Roses by Veronica Sliva
by Veronica Sliva
email: vsliva@rogers.com
Veronica has been gardening for as long as she can remember. When other kids were reading comics, she was reading the Stokes Seed Catalog. In the past 25 years Veronica has written hundreds of articles about gardens and gardening for magazines and newspapers. She also develops online content for Internet websites. Her regular newspaper column, In the Garden is enjoyed by readers in Durham Region, and The Garden Party is read throughout the greater Toronto area. She is also a regular contributor to HGTV.ca.
When not consumed by her garden she enjoys photography, birding, spending time at the cottage and ballroom dancing.
Veronica makes presentations on gardening topics to a variety of groups including horticultural societies, garden clubs and service clubs.
Veronica owns Sliva Communications, a business that provides a full a range of writing services including business and marketing material, technical documentation and anything that requires a wordsmith. She is a seasoned technical writer with a post graduate diploma in Technical Communications.
Veronica is a Regional Director for Canada of the Garden Writers' Association, Chair of the Oshawa Valley Botanical Garden Task Force, and a past president of the Brooklin Horticultural Society.
July 5, 2009
Roses … probably no other flower is so loved and feared by gardeners. New gardeners often shy away from growing roses at first, and no wonder! It’s intimidating to listen to more experienced gardeners lament about roses lost to severe winters, and then fretting over black spot (what’s that?), and then debating the correct method of pruning. On and on it goes. It’s like everything else in gardening though, and comes down to choosing the right plant for the location you have to offer. If you are infatuated with roses, fear not because there is a rose for every situation. Growing roses is not difficult. Once you learn a few basics, you can begin what often turns into a life long passion and love affair with the flower of romance…the irresistible rose.
Rose Types
Generally, I think of rose types as those that need to be coddled and are therefore tender because they don’t always make it through the winter, and as those types that reliably survive our winters and are considered hardy.
Here is a brief description of the different types of roses:
Tender Types
Tender roses require winter protection and without it may not survive our winters. Winter protection means to ‘hill’ up the roses by covering the base of the plant with a few inches of compost, usually in about mid October. Sometimes it’s best to think of these tender roses as annuals, and enjoy them throughout the summer. If they survive the winter (and they often do), consider it a bonus.
Hybrid Teas
· Hybrid teas have large flowers on long stems · Generally they produce one flower per stem · Hybrid teas are the type typically sold as cut flowers · They come in the widest colour range and fragrance varies depending on variety
Floribundas
· Floribunda means abundance of flowers · The bloom with clusters of flowers from early summer to frost, with biggest show in early summer · They are shorter than hybrid teas · Floribundas are hardier than hybrid teas, but still need winter protection
Grandifloras
· Grandiflora means ‘large flowers’ · These roses have big flowers in small clusters · They are the result of a cross between hybrid tea and floribunda roses · They have longer stems than floribundas, are taller than most hybrid teas, and are twice the height of floribundas
English or David Austin Roses
· These roses are noted for full, very double flowers that come in the delicate, pastel colours of old garden roses and they have outstanding fragrance · David Austin crossed modern climbers, floribundas and hybrid teas with gallicas and damasks to produce these roses
Miniatures
· Miniatures look like tiny versions of hybrid teas · Their height varies between 6 inches to 2 feet (15 -60 cm) · Most varieties bloom all summer long · I have found that miniatures reliably come through the winter (at least for me)
Hardier Types
Climbers
· Climbers are not really a type of rose, but a category of botanically diverse roses that have long, arching branches or upright canes · They don’t climb on their own, but need to be tied to a support such as a trellis.
Modern Shrub Roses
· These great roses need minimal care, are disease resistant and are hardy to -35 C with only snow as protection · Available in a variety of colours and sizes, they flower throughout the summer · The Parkland and Explorer series were developed by Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada
Growing Conditions
Soil
Roses prefer a clay based soil over light sandy soil. However, roses will grow in almost any type of soil if enough organic matter is added. If you routinely refer to your soil as concrete, then it would be wise to remove at least half the ‘concrete’ from the planting area and replace it with something lighter.
Light
Roses like a sunny location, preferably with 8 to 10 hours of direct sunlight in the afternoon. With less light, you will get fewer flowers and the canes will become spindly.
Fertilizer
Once your roses are well established and growing, preferably after the first bloom, feed them with a prepared rose fertilizer. Roses should not be fed after July since this encourages soft growth and raises the risk of winter kill.
Water
Roses need good drainage, but they also need a lot of water during the growing season. If the weather has been dry, they should be soaked once or twice a week, depending on how well your soil holds water. Water your roses either in late afternoon or early morning, being careful to water at the soil level.
Planting Guide
1. Immediately before planting, put the rose in a pail of water so that the finer roots don’t dry out. 2. Dig a hole 18 to 24 inches deep and wide enough so that the roots can be spread out in a natural manner. The deeper the soil is prepared the better. 3. Work well rotted or composted cattle manure into the soil along with a liberal addition of peat moss. Don’t worry about making it too rich. Roses are heavy feeders and organic matter helps the moisture retention qualities of the soil. An addition of super phosphate is recommended. 4. Form a pyramid or cone of soil in the center of the hole and position the rose on top of the pyramid so that the crown or bud union is about 3 inches below ground level and let the roots fall over the pyramid. 5. Fill in the hole with the remaining soil mix. 6. Firm the soil so that the rose’s roots are in contact with the soil and there are no air pockets around the roots. 7. Soak the rose thoroughly.
Pruning
At the same time a rose is planted, it should be pruned or cut back if this has not already been done by the garden center. Only three or four strong branches from the base should remain and these too should be cut back to about four or five inches above the ground. Cut the branches back to the live wood, as indicated by white pith. Cuts should be made with sharp shears, about 5mm above an outward facing bud.
Diseases and Pests
My first choice of treatment for pest problems is one that doesn’t involve chemicals. Generally speaking, insecticides should only be used once a problem is identified. For diseases, some Rose experts suggest a preventative approach is more desirable. They say you should spray or dust every ten days even if you don't see a problem because by the time you notice, it may be too late to control the disease. There are products that combine both an insecticide and a fungicide. Use these only if you require both. The following chart provides an overview of some common diseases and pests.
Diseases
Description Damage Treatment
Black Spot
· Round black spots on leaves · Leaves turn yellow, and drop off · Use materials specifically formulated for rose black spot and mildew control, such as Funginex alternated with benomyl or folpet (Phaltan) · Apply fungicidal sprays every 10 to 14 days from the time new shoots are 10-15cm (4-6 in) high until October
Powdery Mildew
· Powdery, white fungal disease · Most often occurs when the days are warm, the nights are cool and when air circulation is poor · Grayish, white patches on leaves · Leaves can become distorted and drop off · Stem, buds affected too · Remove affected leaves · Commercial fungicide should control the problem
Pests
Spider Mites
· Soft bodied · Increase in hot weather · Leaves become pale and dry, could turn reddish · May be able to see webs · Mostly found on underside of leaves · Spray off with hose · If they persist, spray with insecticidal soap
Scale · Sap feeding insect lives under shell-like covering · Encrust stem, insect sucks sap from plant · Causes plant to wilt and die · Cut off affected parts · Insects survive winter, so dormant oil spray in early spring helps
Rose Chafer
· Luminescent, grayish-brown insect, ¼ inch long with spiny legs · Eats new rose buds · Hand picking or insecticide labeled for this purpose
Aphids · Soft bodied · Take on colour of whatever they are feeding on
· Found on new growth
· Try hosing them off · Use insecticidal soap · Release natural predators such as lady bugs, which can be purchased at garden centers
Roses for Durham Region (Canadian Zones 5 – 6)
Hybrid Teas and Grandifloras
* Pascali (white)
* Burgund 81 (med red)
* Olympiad (med red)
* Double Delight (red blend)
* Elina/Peaudouce (light yellow)
* Liebeszauber (med red)
* Miss All American Beauty (deep pink)
* Princess Grace of Monaco (white)
* Garden Party (yellow blend)
* Alec's Red (med red)
* Folklore (orange)
* Electron (deep pink)
* Tournament of Roses (med pink)
* Touch of Class (orange/pink)
* Just Joey (orange)
Floribundas
* Iceberg (white)
* Europeana (deep red)
* Sexy Rexy (med pink)
* Tabris (pink blend)
* Lavaglow (deep red)
* Friesia/Sunsprite (deep yellow)
Climbers
* New Dawn (light pink)
* Altissimo (med red)
* America (orange/pink)
* Clair Matin (med pink)
* Compassion (orange/pink)
* John Cabot (med red)
Miniatures
* Mountie ( med red)
* Jean Keneally (apricot)
* Magic Carrousel (red blend)
* Minnie Pearl (med pink)
* Cupcake (med pink)
* Debut (red blend)
Modern Shrubs
* William Baffin (deep pink)
* Dortmund (med red)
* Morden Blush (light pink)
* Bonica (med pink)
* Golden Wings (light yellow)
* Sally Hohnes (white)
* The Fairy (light pink)
* Therese Bugnet (med pink)
Old Garden Roses
* Rose de Rescht (deep pink)
* Stanwell Perpetual (white)
* Louise Odier (deep pink)
* Queen Margarethe (light pink)
* Austrian Copper, (red blend)
* Frau Karl Druschki (white)
Austin Roses
* Graham Thomas (deep yellow)
* Mary Rose (med pink)
* Golden Celebration (deep yellow)
* Heritage (light pink)
* Eglantine (deep pink)
* Evelyn (apricot blend)
Read more: http://www.icangarden.com/document.cfm?task=viewdetail&itemid=4...
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